Wednesday Near Wyoming - August 7, 2024

 

As someone who's always been fascinated by the stories of the pioneers, I thought I'd feature the Oregon Trail this month. 

If you noticed, the title says Wednesday NEAR Wyoming, not Wednesday IN Wyoming. That's because this site is in Nebraska.

Did you recognize it as Chimney Rock? It does look like a chimney, doesn't it? This was one of the more recognizable landmarks on the journey west.

Wednesday in Wyoming - November 24, 2021

 

Another landmark on the Wyoming portion of the Oregon Trail is Devil's Gate. Although the name sounds ominous, this was a welcome stop along the trail, because the fissure in the rock was created by the Sweetwater River.

If you've traveled through central Wyoming, you know it's a mostly arid region, making the presence of a river and the fresh water it provided a reason for the pioneers to give thanks.

As for the origin of the name, here's a link with a possible explanation.

Wednesday in Wyoming - November 17, 2021

 

The pioneers who crossed the Oregon Trail might not have known their wagons would leave the deep ruts I featured in last week's post, but they definitely knew they were leaving their mark on Register Cliff.

This nineteenth century form of graffiti is found a few miles outside of Fort Laramie. Other signatures were etched into Independence Rock closer to the center of the state. They all show that the urge to say "I was here" isn't unique to modern times.

Wednesday in Wyoming - November 10, 2021

 

Do you suppose the pioneers who crossed the Oregon Trail realized they'd be leaving long-lasting evidence of their journey? These wagon ruts -- some cut as much as five feet into the native limestone -- are unmistakable proof that thousands of covered wagons passed this way.

Wednesday in Wyoming - November 3, 2021

 

This month's posts will highlight sites along the Oregon Trail in Wyoming, starting with Laramie Peak.  This mountain, which is visible for many miles, was a major landmark along the Trail, signaling the end of the "easy" journey across the plains and the beginning of the more difficult and dangerous trek around mountains.

You'll notice that I put "easy" in quotes. That's because I don't consider any aspect of the journey west an easy one. Pioneers faced countless dangers as they left their homes in the East to forge new lives.

I salute their courage!

Fort Laramie: Oasis on the Oregon Trail - Part Two

As the years passed, Fort Laramie's function changed, and so did its buildings. When the threat of war with the Native Americans diminished after the Treaty of 1868, more officers brought their wives to the fort, and that brought more changes. While bachelor officers might share rooms in Old Bedlam, married officers needed houses, and so a number of buildings were constructed along what became known as Officers’ Row. The captain’s house, which has been reconstructed, is a two-family dwelling representative of the era. 

So too is what has been called the Burt House, named after Lt. Col. Andrew Burt, who served two tours of duty at the fort.

During the fort’s final decade, boardwalks lined Officers’ Row. Houses were surrounded by picket fences, many yards had flower gardens, and women strolled along the boardwalks carrying parasols. There were even birdbaths. But, since this was Wyoming with its infamous winds, the birdbaths weren’t the typical basin-on-a-pedestal style one might find in an eastern garden. Instead, they were circular depressions in the ground, ringed by bricks or stones. 

 

That era ended when the Army no longer needed a large military presence in the area. In 1890 Fort Laramie was decommissioned and its buildings sold at public auction. The fort might have become nothing more than a memory, but a group of Wyoming residents was determined that this part of American history not be lost. Thanks to their efforts, the State of Wyoming acquired the fort in 1937, and in 1938 it became part of the National Park System.

 Fort Laramie is now a National Historic Site and a must-see spot for anyone interested in the pioneers’ travels as well as life on the early frontier. Portions of the old fort have been reconstructed, providing an opportunity to see both the interior and the exterior of representative buildings. And while only foundations of other buildings remain, those foundations give visitors an idea of how extensive the fort was.

Many things have changed over the almost two centuries that a fort has existed on this site in eastern Wyoming, but what hasn’t changed is the beauty of the surrounding area and the feeling of history that surrounds visitors to the fort that welcomed so many emigrants.

Fort Laramie: Oasis on the Oregon Trail - Part One

 

In the mid nineteenth century while the British ton were traveling along well-marked roads in comfortable coaches pulled by fine horseflesh they might have purchased at Tattersall’s, hundreds of thousands of Americans walked – yes, walked – thousands of miles in search of a better future.

There were no well-sprung vehicles with velvet cushions to help absorb the roads’ bumps and few inns to offer them beds and hot meals. Instead, these pioneers loaded their belongings into Conestoga wagons, yoked sturdy oxen together to pull their canvas-covered temporary homes, and headed west. So many of them traveled the same route that the wagon wheels carved ruts as deep as five feet into the limestone hills.

Some went to California, hoping to find a fortune in gold. Others were attracted by the promise of fertile land in Oregon. Still others fled religious persecution as they pulled handcarts toward the Great Salt Lake. Though their routes diverged soon after they reached what is now Wyoming, virtually every wagon train stopped at Fort Laramie. It was here that the pioneers rested their oxen, made necessary repairs to their wagons, and replenished their supplies at the post trader’s store. For, while crossing the plains had been arduous, the worst was yet to come. Mountainous terrain, the fear of Indian attacks, the threat of early snow, and the knowledge that there were few other places to purchase supplies made Fort Laramie seem like an oasis on the journey west.

The fort that greeted travelers in the mid nineteenth century bore little resemblance to Hollywood’s idea of a western Army post. It lacked the wooden stockade and dilapidated wooden buildings that film makers have immortalized. In their place was a collection of buildings that might have reminded the pioneers of a New England town, but it wasn’t always so.

The first fort on the location, a trading post named Fort William, was relatively small and had a wooden palisade. While Hollywood might have liked it, it was destined for a very short life. When another fort was built nearby and threatened its status as a major fur trading post, Fort William was replaced by a new fort constructed on the same location. Fort John, as the new post was named, was made of adobe, was considerably larger than Fort William, and was able to compete with the nearby fort.

When the fur trade declined, Fort William’s existence might have been in jeopardy, but it gained a new lease on life as the first of the emigrant trains came through. Now, instead of serving as a center for trading buffalo hides, it became a major supply point for the wagon trains.

 Then, as the number of emigrants swelled, so did fears for their safety. Responding to that need, the Army purchased Fort John in 1849 and renamed it Fort Laramie. Since the newly named fort would become a major military installation with both cavalry and infantry troops, it was time to expand the post and construct more buildings to house the men.

One of the most prominent landmarks was Old Bedlam, the two-story frame building that’s still in existence and that has the distinction of being the oldest military structure in Wyoming. Though its use changed several times, including serving as the post headquarters for a few years, it retained the nickname it gained during the early years of its existence when it served as bachelor officers’ housing. One can only guess what those officers did to warrant that name.

Close by Old Bedlam was the post trader’s store, more commonly referred to as the sutler’s store. It was here that travelers could find everything from teakettles to blankets to foodstuffs to basic medical supplies. The sutler’s store also housed the post office, an important stop for travelers starved for news from home.

 It’s no wonder that those hardy pioneers looked forward to reaching Fort Laramie.

To be continued ...

Wednesday in Wyoming - November 27, 2019

For me, these wagon ruts are among the most memorable sights along the Oregon Trail. Can you imagine how many wagons must have traveled this route to carve ruts that deep? While it's true that limestone is a relatively soft rock, it's still rock.

Amazing!

The ruts are now preserved as a Wyoming state historic site.

Wednesday in Wyoming - November 20, 2019

One of the major landmarks on the Oregon Trail was Laramie Peak. Although it's not the highest mountain in Wyoming, it is the highest peak in the Laramie Range and is high enough to be seen from up to 100 miles away.

As beautiful as the mountain is, it probably filled pioneers with at least a bit of dread, since it signaled the most difficult part of the journey.

If you'd like to learn more about Laramie Peak, Wikipedia has an article.

While I was searching for information about the peak, I discovered that it's a popular climbing spot. So, if you're a climber and are coming to Wyoming, here's that link. I plan to stay on level ground.

Wednesday in Wyoming - November 13, 2019

One of the major stops on the Oregon Trail was Fort Laramie. It was here that pioneers could purchase supplies for the next part of the journey -- the most challenging part, because it involved mountains. They could also have their wagons repaired, do laundry, and -- perhaps most importantly -- rest for a day or two before continuing.

The picture above shows modern day Fort Laramie, with a number of restored buildings, including the sutler's store, which is the one-story building on the far right. It was here that pioneers would shop for whatever they needed.

As you can see, the interior of the sutler's store was filled with goods that pioneers as well as soldiers might need. Everything from saddles to teakettles to blankets and, of course, food, could be purchased here.

To learn more about Fort Laramie, click here.

Wednesday Near Wyoming - November 6, 2019

This month, in honor of the fact that Barbour Books has reissued The Oregon Trail Romance Collection, which includes my novella, The Sagebrush Bride, in a bargain print edition, I'm featuring scenes along the Oregon Trail.

As I drive in air-conditioned or heated comfort along reasonably smooth roads with speed limits as high as 80 mph, I marvel at all that the pioneers endured on their journey west. Many of them walked next to their wagons, facing blistering heat, hail storms, possible snake bites - so many hazards. But they persisted, taking comfort from milestones along the way.

One of those milestones was Chimney Rock, which is now a National Historic Site in Nebraska. (That's why this week's post is Wednesday NEAR Wyoming.) For more information about Chimney Rock, you might enjoy this link.

Wednesday in Wyoming -- June 24, 2015

Honoring the Pioneers -- Part 4

As you can see, the service to honor the pioneers attracted a number of people.  If you look at the table on the right side, you'll see the wooden boxes, now closed and ready for reburial.

In addition to the memorial service and burial, the afternoon's events included the unveiling of the commemorative sign provided by the Platte County Historical Society and the Daughters of the American Revolution.  (That's a DAR member in historic costume.)

While some people might have covered the sign with a tarp, not so the PCHS and the DAR.  If you look at the bottom of the sign, you'll see that they used a quilt.  How fitting!

And so, with much fanfare including speeches and music, three pioneers were returned to their original burial site, and a new historical marker was unveiled.  The pioneers were indeed honored.

Wednesday in Wyoming -- June 17, 2015

Honoring the Pioneers -- Part 3

When they buried their dead, many of the pioneers were unable to construct headstones or other markers to identify their loved ones' final resting place.  In some cases, though, they attempted to leave a record.  This is an enhanced photograph of a stone found with the youngest of the three pioneers who were honored in the May 2, 2015 ceremony.

The stone says "Jesse Cole July 14, 186" with the last digit having been destroyed by the elements.  While you might think this was a headstone, it was not.  Instead, it was placed on top of Jesse's body before it was buried.

This is the unenhanced version of the stone. 

Researchers determined that Jesse Cole was a teenager, perhaps thirteen or fourteen years old, and that he had some Native American ancestry.  The other two pioneers were women, one of whom had recently given birth.  Based on diary entries from Abigail Scott Duniway, it is thought that this woman might have been Ann Scott, Abigail's mother.  Researchers named the other woman "Glenda" in honor of the nearby town of Glendo.

Wednesday in Wyoming -- June 10, 2015

Honoring the Pioneers -- Part 2

 

Box Elder/ Alder Clump wasn't simply a place to camp.  It was also a place for pioneers to bury their dead.  And there were, unfortunately, all too many of them.  While the journey west promised a better life, it was a perilous one, with an estimated 10% of the pioneers dying along the way from injuries and diseases like cholera. This particular site became a well-known graveyard.

Though no one knows how many pioneers were buried here, between 1974 and 2005 remains of three pioneers were uncovered.  These bones and artifacts were subsequently studied by the University of Wyoming's Anthropology Department, and -- thanks to modern forensic science -- the researchers were able to determine the three pioneers' approximate ages, gender and racial background.

This year the remains were returned to the Platte County Historical Society for reburial at the site.  Though the pioneers rarely had coffins for their loved ones, the PCHS and the Daughters of the American Revolution wanted to honor these three pioneers.  The local high school constructed sturdy wooden boxes for each of the deceased, and members donated antique quilts to wrap the bones.

If you look closely, you can see there are three boxes and three different quilts.  The plastic bags in front of the boxes contain artifacts found with the skeletons.  These included buttons and beads.

Prior to the memorial service, the public was invited to view the remains at the Glendo Town Hall, then travel twenty miles to the reburial site.  As you can imagine, it was a somber occasion but one I'll never forget.

Wednesday in Wyoming -- June 3, 2015

Honoring the Pioneers -- Part 1

Does the name Box Elder/ Alder Clump Spring mean anything to you?  It was a new one for me, too, but I learned that it was an important part of the Oregon Trail in Wyoming.  The combination of a spring (look closely and you can see the water) and a clump of trees made it a welcome place for pioneers to camp or at least take their noon break.

Although the site itself was relatively flat, you can see the rolling hills beyond it. And in the distance, across a deceptively flat-looking prairie, is Laramie Peak.  While the wagon trains skirted the peak, its presence reminded them of the harsh terrain to come.

 Is it any wonder they chose to refresh themselves by a shaded spring?  And, as we'll discuss next week, they did more than camp and eat here.

Wednesday in Wyoming -- April 29, 2015

The Oregon Trail -- Part 5

One of the major landmarks along the Oregon Trail was Independence Rock, a mammoth outcropping of granite that covers 24 acres.  As you can see, it's now a Wyoming State Historic Site.  (Question: does the sign remind you of a wagon on its side?)

First named by fur traders who were camped in the area on July 4, 1824, Independence Rock had a special significance for pioneers on the Oregon Trail.  They knew that if they hadn't reached this milestone by Independence Day, they risked being caught in snowstorms before they reached their destination.

As was the case with Register Cliffs further east in Wyoming, Independence Rock was a place for emigrants to carve their names and leave messages.  Unlike Register Cliff, which is composed of softer stone that made inscriptions relatively easy, the granite of Independence Rock meant pioneers had a harder time inscribing anything on it.

Many of the inscriptions that are still visible are more recent than the Oregon Trail, and the plaques were added during the twentieth century.  Now the site is protected by a fence to prevent further damage.

Although difficult to read, this sign provides more information about what a Jesuit missionary called "The Great Record of the Desert."

Wednesday in Wyoming -- April 22, 2015

The Oregon Trail -- Part 4

When I think of pioneers heading west, I envision Conestoga wagons, but not all emigrants had enough money to buy the wagons and the oxen to pull them.  Some, most notably Mormon pioneers, pulled handcarts.

Believe it or not, each handcart was designed to hold all the possessions of a family of five. 

 While the contents of many handcarts were simply covered with a blanket, others resembled Conestoga wagons and had canvas tops.

These pictures were taken at the Martin's Cove Mormon Handcart Visitor Center which commemorates not only the entire handcart journey but also the many emigrants who lost their lives at Martin's Cove.  A late start, an early snowstorm and some poor decisions resulted in the deaths of almost a quarter of the 600 people who formed the Edward Martin Handcart Company.

Wednesday in Wyoming -- April 15, 2015

The Oregon Trail -- Part 3

Have you ever heard of Devil's Gate?  If you were a pioneer on the Oregon Trail, you would have.  This Sweetwater River gorge was considered one of the major landmarks along the way.  Although wagons could not traverse the narrow pass, the emigrants found the area with its forage for livestock and wood for fuel a good place to camp.  

Besides the grass and wood, the site had the advantage of being partially blocked from the wind, thanks to those high cliffs.  Modern visitors can take a footpath to the gap or simply enjoy the natural beauty from the road.

Wednesday in Wyoming -- April 8, 2015

The Oregon Trail -- Part 2

This is the scene pioneers would have faced as they headed west from Fort Laramie toward Laramie Peak,  the mountain in the background. 

At first glance, it may not look as if this is challenging terrain, but consider some of the hazards along the way.

Although most pioneers began the journey with sturdy boots, when they wore out, some had no replacements.  The Historic Trails Interpretive Center in Casper shows women and children walking barefoot across the prairie.  Even with boots, I wouldn't want to step on a prickly pear cactus.  Those spiky yucca leaves were even worse.  They have sharp serrated edges that can cut a skirt or unprotected skin.  Can you imagine how painful that would have been?

And, although the terrain in the first picture may have looked level, the reality is that the prairie consists of rolling ground.  Of course this road wasn't built in the middle of the nineteenth century, but it shows you just how many hills the pioneers had to travel.  I suspect that after a day of walking, even a slight incline would have been tiring.

Yet, despite all the challenges, hundreds of thousands of people made the journey west, their wagons leaving indelible marks in the limestone.  What courageous, strong people they were!

Wednesday in Wyoming -- April 1, 2015

The Oregon Trail -- Part 1

This month, in honor of the publication of The Oregon Trail Romance Collection, I'm going to feature Wyoming sites along the Oregon Trail in my Wednesday in Wyoming posts. 

As pioneers entered what is now the state of Wyoming, the first major landmark they encountered was Fort Laramie.  And without a doubt, the most prominent building was the bachelor officers' quarters (BOQ), quickly nicknamed "Old Bedlam" because of the rowdy parties held there.

Built in 1849, Old Bedlam is the oldest military building in Wyoming and had a variety of uses.  Although it's most famous as a BOQ, it also served as the post headquarters and later housed married officers. 

As you can see, some of the officers left permanent reminders of their stay at Old Bedlam by signing the wall over the fireplace.  The table with cards and liquor bottles gives you an idea of how they spent their free time.

While the enlisted men had large dining halls and probably never saw a tablecloth, the officers had more privacy and luxury.  Still, life was not easy on a western fort.  Although there were few battles to be fought, the harsh conditions and boredom led to a relatively high desertion rate. 

I imagine that the arrival of wagon trains during the summer months helped alleviate the soldiers' boredom.  For the pioneers, Fort Laramie was the last place to rest and restock before they faced the most difficult part of their journey: crossing the mountains.